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Gift of H. Ross Perot.
Surcoat
Gift of H. Ross Perot.
Contact us at copyright@samuseum.org for rights and reproduction of this image.

Surcoat

DepartmentAsian Art
CultureChinese
Date1821-1850
Dimensionslength: 54 in. (137.2 cm)
Credit LineSan Antonio Museum of Art, Gift of H. Ross Perot
Object number87.70.1
Geography
Place madeChina
General regionAsia
DescriptionMan's surcoat for cold weather is fur (fox?), lined, and can be worn, reversed, w/ fur outside. Body is plain woven red silk; sleeves and neck band of plain woven black silk, dragons applied in couched gold thread. 19 in. water band at hem is solidly embroidered in multicolor satin stitch silk threads. Body surrounding dragons and sleeves and deep, fur-edged cuffs are embroidered in satin, split satin and various stitches in silk depicting flaming pearls, clouds, fruit bats, lanterns, etc. Blue and gold brocade bind neck and edge the cuffs, which are of plain weave black satin.Label TextSemiformal robes such as this one were designed to recall the nomadic heritage of Manchus before they conquered China in 1644. Such robes for men and women are similar in cut and tailoring: full-body length and shaped like an “A” with the front and back cut from a single piece of silk. The front includes two overlapping parts and fastens to the wearer’s right. The sleeves taper from wide at the shoulder to tight at the forearms and end with a horse-hoof-shaped cuff, a vestigial reference to hand coverings worn by nomadic horsemen. Women’s robes include an extra embroidered band separating the sleeve from the body. Robes for men are slitted on the front, back, and sides, while robes for women only have side slits.
Not on view
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The San Antonio Museum of Art is in the process of digitizing its permanent collection. This electronic record was created from historic documentation that does not necessarily reflect SAMA's complete or current knowledge about the object. Review and updating of such records is ongoing.